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REDMOND ROUND TRIP LOG
DateStatus
Pre-Trip After more than three months of planning and route selection it�s finally time for the Wife and I to leave on my self proclaimed TRIP OF A LIFETIME. Coast to Coast, and the best part is Janet is going with me. I wouldn�t be near as excited if I were having to do this solo as I did last year for the Michigan trip. It�s June 30th and we�re up early, eat some breakfast and head out to the garage where the bike is sitting with the camper attached and fully loaded. All we need to do is put the refrigerated items in the trailer ice chest, put on our riding jackets and helmets and hit the road. By 7:00 am we�re easing out of the garage and down the driveway. This 1st day was an easy ride north through Florida and into Georgia, only 267 miles planned. The temperatures were unseasonably cool, only in the mid 80�s, and I had picked a State Park campground as our destination for the night. Unfortunately, this was a holiday weekend and there were no available campsites. They were having a fire works celebration and things had filled up early. So, it was back on the road looking for alternative lodging. Within a short distance we found a Holiday Inn with a vacancy and so we decided to forgo camping this 1st night on the road. As you might guess, Janet was not at all disappointed by this circumstance. And, truth be known, neither was I because just as we finished getting our bags out of the bike and into the room the skies opened up and it rained heavily most of the night. Fortunately the rain stopped part way through the night and so the roads had dried up by morning. The only negative from that 1st night was that the Motel was hosting a Family Reunion and there were what seemed like a hundred unsupervised rug rats running up and down the hall and slamming doors for a good part of the night. Oh well, guess ya can�t win �em all.
July 1 Again we�re up early, partake of the Motel Continental breakfast, pack the bike and once again hit the road. We left under cloudy skies and temperatures in the 70�s. Eventually the gray clouds became rain clouds and we had to dig out the rain gear. We road the remainder of the day in and out of rain showers but fortunately the rain kept the temperatures in the mid 80�s. Mostly light rain until early afternoon when things started to grow in intensity. We finally decided to stop for a rest and something to eat and since it wasn�t picnic weather we located a Hardys and sat out the worst of the rain. Meet a man and wife who were riding a couple of Harleys who had also sought refuge from the storm and had a pleasant conversation which helped pass the time. Finally the rain subsided and we set out for our evening destination, Roland Cooper State Park in Alabama which, according to my map was only a short 10 miles. Except for the wild turkey that attempted to commit suicide by running out in front of the bike, the ride to the camp ground was uneventful. Unlike the previous night, the camp ground was quite empty and so we had no problem securing a site. Another comfortable day at 266 miles. We could have done more but I had promised Janet that we would not try to make the whole trip in one day and therefore planned most of our days to be at or below 300 miles. We set up the camper in a light drizzle which eventually ended and we enjoyed a pleasant and best of all QUITE night.
July 2 Another early start, ate breakfast and packed the camper and on the road by 7:30. We spent the morning riding through mile after mile of pine forest across Alabama under cloudy skies with temperatures again in the mid 80�s. We eventually crossed the border into Mississippi where pine forest continued to dominate the scenery with small towns located at intervals of 30 to 40 miles. Just when we decided to start looking for a place to stop and make a sandwich for lunch it started to rain. So, once again it was on with the rain gear. Eventually the rain stopped and the sun broke through the clouds and as a result the temperature started to climb. We never did find a place to stop for lunch but just kept riding. Temperatures topped out in the high 90�s. Maybe it�s because it was so hot, but we both found this area of Mississippi quite boring. We had long since left the pleasant pine forest behind and had gotten into a more agricultural portion of the state. The highway was long and straight with rice, cotton, soy beans, and cat fish farms blanketing both sides of the road mile after mile. We finally got into the area of the camp ground that I had chosen for the night but both decided that it was just too hot for camping and once again decided to look for lodging with some air-conditioning. It took about another 40 miles, but eventually we found a suitable motel and after 365 miles stopped for the day. Overall, a good day and a good night�s rest.
July 3 On the road again after another sumptuous continental breakfast. Morning temperatures started out in the mid 70�s but gradually climbed into the 90�s as the day wore on. We finally crossed the Mighty Mississippi River into Arkansas. Hoping for a change of scenery turned out to be a disappointment. The rice, cotton, soy beans, and cat fish farms just continued. Around noon we stopped at a small gas station in Lockesburg, AK. While I was paying for the gas I ask the clerk if there was a small park or other place in town where we could find a picnic table to have our lunch. She said yes, there�s a park just over the bridge. You�ll see it on your left. Well, we did see it on our left just as we were passing by. �U� Turn time only we�re on a narrow two lane road with gravel shoulders. Not perfect terrain for �U� turns when riding two up and pulling a heavy trailer. Just then I saw a cemetery on the left with what looked like a circular drive that would turn us around so we could get back to the park. So, in I go, unfortunately the drive was one lane gravel and it didn�t circle. In fact it dead (no pun intended) ended. What to do? I stopped and Janet climbed off, I studied the situation and mentally plotted a route over the grass through a lightly populated section of headstones. With all the skill and agility (not to mention luck) I could muster I set off on my �U� Turn through the cemetery. Thankfully no cops showed up and I made a successful turn around and found myself back on the one lane gravel road headed out of the cemetery. I stopped, Janet climbed back on and we made our way back to the community park and had a relaxing lunch. The remainder of the day was pretty much uneventful as we continued to head west across Arkansas. My assessment of this area of Arkansas is that it is pretty much a mirror image of Mississippi with the Miss. River being the mirror. Eventually we left the farming district behind and entered more pine forests with lots of logging trucks to share the highway. Finally we crossed over into Oklahoma and found rolling hills which gradually grew into small mountains. This extreme south east corner of Oklahoma is very pretty and is reminiscent of the area around the Sky Line Drive, including scenic drives through the mountain. I had planned to stop at Wister Lake State Park in this area. However the 94? reading on the bikes� thermometer suggested that once again we weren�t camping. We stopped at the park and learned that they had air conditioned cabins for rent and so we decided to give that a try. It turned out quite well as the cabins were two rooms with a full bath and were fully furnished including linens and cooking utensils. It was a pleasant experience and for my money beat the heck out of a motel. The mileage for the day was a respectable 344.
July 4 Today the plan was to put Oklahoma behind us. We left the cabin with morning temperatures in the high 70�s and clear skies. Gradually the mountains and hills gave way to the flat plains and cattle ranches. The sides of the highway were lined with literally 1000�s of large round hay bales. Apparently the ranchers spend all summer raising and storing hay and various other food supplements in order to feed the cattle all winter. As we continued west the temperature continued rising, by noon it was in the high 80�s and by about 3:00 PM it had topped out at 104! Damn that thermometer on the bike, I think knowing the actual temperature makes it feel that much hotter. Fortunately this was to be the hottest day of the entire trip. Since we had not yet reached the desert regions of Nevada and Arizona, where as it turned out temperatures were only in the 90�s, I guess we should be thankful. Janet took a beating today as a result of the sun and heat. I didn�t realize how bad she was feeling until we stopped. Once again the weather dictated a motel for the night. At about 3:30 in the afternoon with 342 miles under out belt we found a Days Inn and packed it in for the day. When we finally climbed off the bike and got into the room Janet was complaining of lightheadedness, and nausea. I cranked down the AC, prepared some ice packs for her and provided an endless supply of cool water. After about an hour she started to feel better. We missed completing the ride across Oklahoma by about 30 miles but were lucky to have avoided a disaster resulting from dehydration. We did learn from that experience and we both started drinking lots of water throughout the day and therefore avoided a repeat of that scary experience.
July 5 We both rested well and were able to get an early start in an attempt to avoid riding during the late afternoon when the heat is at it�s worst. We were on the bike and pulling out of the parking lot by 6:30 AM. Having quickly completed the last 30 miles of Oklahoma we entered the Texas Panhandle. Well, I thought Oklahoma was boring but I�ve got to say that this area of Texas has it beat by a long shot. At this point we were running on Interstate 40 and simply attempting to get through this part of the country quickly. It�s amazing that in this area the roads are so straight so as to become almost hypnotizing and the land is so devoid of topography that the ground disappears from view as a result of the curvature of the earth. It�s no wonder that this is called big sky country. When looking off at the horizon the earth is so flat that the sky literally dominates the field of view. It still intrigues me that through much of this area there are no buildings, only an occasional windmill, no trees, shrubs or bushes over 3 or 4 feet tall, and only an odd cow or two hear and there. The other somewhat disconcerting realization is that in many cases it�s up to 100 miles between gas stations. One doesn�t want to let the old fuel tank get too low between fill ups. Fortunately the Beemer gets good mileage even two up with the camper. Finally we put Texas behind us and entered New Mexico. This territory started out just like Texas but after about 50 miles we started to see some signs of rolling hills and then the beginning of the buttes or mesas (not sure what their called) but they�re very large flat topped stony eruptions that dominate the landscape. A pleasing change after the stark landscape of Texas. About 100 miles east of Albuquerque the Sangre mountain range came into view. The vegetation on these mountains is mostly brown and because their topography is quite smooth and rounded they remind me of the �Golden� hills in California north of the San Francisco area. Again this change of scenery provided something of interest for us to observe. Overall the landscape is interesting and definitely beats out Texas and Oklahoma. We finally pulled into a KOA in Albuquerque at about 3:00 with temperatures in the low 90�s and 452 miles on the trip odometer. Interstates are good for making up time. It was a good day with temperatures remaining in the 90�s which when coupled with the fact that we both consumed copious quantities of water allowed us to complete what was to become the longest day of the whole trip and we both felt good. Although the night temperatures dropped into the low 70�s we did not enjoy our 1st camping experience in a KOA. The facility was located close to the interstate and although it had a large wall that was supposed to provide a sound barrier we found that it didn�t work too well. We listened to heavy truck traffic all night. They had also placed many dusk to dawn lights around the camp presumably for security, but as a result it never really got dark. Otherwise the place, although a little expensive-about $35 for the night as I recall, was neat and very clean and with an on location laundry that allowed us to recycle our dirty clothes. We also meet a group of teenagers and their chaperones who were camped next to us and were returning to Colorado after having spent several weeks in Mexico helping folks in a very poor farm community erect housing and other community buildings. A great bunch of kids who had obviously learned what it�s like to live without the many excesses that we unfortunately take for granted.
July 6 After another hearty camp breakfast of oatmeal and coffee we were once again off to a good start at about 7:30. Again running on I40. I really don�t like running on the Interstates but in certain areas of the country there aren�t many options. There just are not a bunch of east to west roads available in this area, so the interstate became the highway of choice. Once out of town the temperature was in the mid 70�s which was great for riding. As we left Albuquerque the landscape was again dominated by the large stone outcroppings until we came within about 50 miles of the Arizona border. At that point these features began to change in shape and texture. They became softer in contour and appeared to have a composition more like sandstone rather than a hard stone surface. The profiles had obviously been sculpted by many years of enduring natures forces. As we continued west eventually there were quite large mountains visible on the horizon and the local terrain became more rolling hills covered with a sage brush type of vegetation. The mid day temperature approached 90?as we arrived at the Painted Desert & Petrified Wood National Park. Here we purchased our National Park Pass and listened to a Park Ranger give a short lecture on the area. We then had lunch and were surprised by a change in the weather. Suddenly we were surrounded by very black storm clouds and very strong gusty winds. After some debate we decided that we had come over 2000 miles from home and weren�t going to let a little rain stop us. So, on with the rain gear and off we go. The intensity of the rain and lightening in the distance did worry us and so we did an abbreviated tour of the 28 mile drive through the Painted Desert. The area is interesting and unique. Only wish the weather had been a little more cooperative so that we could have spent more time there. After the ride through the Painted Desert we got back on I40 and headed for the Campground, Homoloui Ruins State Park. This is a new facility and is centered on an archaeological site where Hopi Indian artifacts are being unearthed and studied. The campground is literally in the middle of the Arizona desert but the temperature was a mild 80? and the Ranger said that it would probably dip into the 50�s during the night. We were both tired and so hit the sack early. Had a great nights sleep with cool temperatures, no dusk to dawn lights and no noise. As a result of going to bed so early I also woke early, about 4:30. Since I couldn�t get back to sleep I got up and put the coffee on and sat at the picnic table. As a result I was treated to a spectacular desert sunrise. Later that morning we meet lots of folks who had come in later in the evening including a Harley rider from Chicago. We sat around talking for a couple of hours and so got a later start than planned, however really enjoyed the time spent with the other travelers.
July 7 Finally completed packing and got on the road about 8:00. From the campground we rode about 20 miles to Meteor Creator Park. A huge 150 foot diameter hole in the ground formed long ago by a meteor which impacted earth. This is a privately owned attraction which has a long and interesting history of exploration and mining activity and claims to be the most well preserved meteor site in the world. Don�t know about that, but it is impressive. After about 1 � hours we jumped back on I40 and headed west toward Flagstaff, Arizona. Flagstaff would appear to be an interesting place to live; mountainous terrain, cool temperatures-today in the 70�s, very green with lots of pine trees and very low humidity. On the eastern edge of Flagstaff we turned north and traveled through the �green belt� eventually descending from the mountain into another �Painted Desert� which is part of a Navaho Indian Reservation and in my opinion is even more beautiful than the National Park, and it�s free! Temperatures climbed into the low 90�s but the vistas were spectacular. Huge rock cliffs of various colors, sand dunes big and small and again of a variety of colors from black to gray and brown to red. We did about a 100 miles of that terrain then turned west and rode for about another 60 miles through and area called the Vermilion Cliffs. These are shear vertical, jagged stone cliffs several 100 feet high that when the sun is just right have a purple coloration. It is absolutely breathtaking. As we continued to head for our camp for the night we eventually we started climbing off the desert floor and left this spectacular scenery behind us. As we continued we encountered some light rain and noticed the temperature starting to drop. In actuality we went up 3000 feet in elevation and the temperature dropped 30 degrees. It ended up in the 60�s, definitely jacket weather. We ended up at a National Forest Park on the outskirts of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park. After setting up camp I ran down to the local convince store to pick up some supplies. As I left the store and started across the parking lot I found two couples looking intently at my bike. One of the men told me, in broken English, that he had a K1200LT back home. As it turned out, back home is in Italy. The four of them had traveled from Italy to New York where they had rented a new Honda Gold Wing and a Harley which they were riding across the US. We had a great conversation, fortunately their English was better than my Italian, mostly about the accessories that I had added to my bike. For the most part they had never seen things like the highway pegs, driving lights, helmet locks, etc, probably because I fabricated most of the mounting hardware myself. It was really neat to meet these folks and exchange ideas with them.
July 8 A day at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The day started out great, early as usual. Our internal clocks are still on east coast time so it�s early to bed and early to rise. We ate our breakfast at camp and then climbed on the bike and started off on the 45 mile drive to the North Rim Visitor Center. The weather was perfect with temperatures in the 70�s and a sunny sky. The two lane road is blanketed on both sides with a forest of pine, cedar and aspen trees as well as several large grassy meadows. In these several meadows we observed a variety of animals including grazing cattle, a dozen or so mule deer and a lone coyote. We finally reached the Visitor Center and got our first view of the canyon from the rear porch of the Hotel/Restaurant. Needless to say, we were impressed. Janet decided to rest in one of the rocking chairs on the porch while I took the � mile trail from the hotel out to Angle Point viewing area. The canyon views from along the trail were incredible. I took several pictures along the way. This awesome natural wonder is impressive for it�s beauty and magnitude but I think what impressed me more was the affect that it seemed to have on people. While standing along this trail and viewing the canyon it became obvious to me that nearly everyone around me was talking quietly, even small children who would normally be running while yelling and screaming were quiet and well behaved. It was like the experience was almost spiritual. This behavior seemed to be typical at all of the overlooks and short hiking trails that we were able to take advantage of. After making my way back to the hotel and locating Janet, we went back to the bike and rode the 25 miles to the Cape Royal area. At that point there is an easy walking trail out to several overlooks, including one which includes one of the views of the Colorado River from the North Rim, so we were both able to enjoy the views. Again the magnitude of this natural wonder is impressive and when you add in the spectacular formations and changing colors and shadows as the lighting changes with clouds passing before the sun the whole experience, at least for me, was like nothing I had ever experienced. We eventually made our way back to the bike and decided to begin the 60 mile ride back to camp. Our return ride started out under sunny skies and about 78 degrees. Unfortunately we no sooner got started when the skies started to darken. The further we went the blacker they got. We finally stopped and put on our riding jackets but not the rain gear. As we would soon discover that was a mistake. We were about 40 miles from camp when the skies opened up. This was a true gully washer. It didn�t take long for us to discover that our riding jackets might be water resistant, but definitely not water proof. So, now were soaked, the temperature has dropped to about 48 degrees and it�s starting to hail. The pea sized hail lasted for about 10 miles but with no place to stop we just kept forging ahead., thank goodness for our full face helmets. Eventually we made it back to camp, changed into dry clothing, got a bite to eat and a hot drink following which we got into the camper and crawled into the sleeping bags to warm up and wait for the rain to stop. Turned out that it rained most of the night, so we got lots of sleep, and the temperatures remained in the low 40�s so it was cool sleeping.
July 9 The rain finally stopped but it was very cloudy in the morning with an occasional drizzle. After breakfast we packed up the trailer and once again headed west. We rode out of the mountain area around the Grand Canyon and once again entered the high desert of Arizona. Fortunately once again we encountered moderate temperatures, only in the 80�s. We eventually crossed into the South East corner of Utah. Again this is an area of high desert with distant mountains and rugged rock formations in the foreground. Actually it is very beautiful. It reminded me of the scenery in the Cowboy and Indian movies from my childhood. At any moment I expected to see a line of Indians on horseback on the distant ridge and have the Lone Ranger or Tom Mex ride up beside us and ask if we were OK! We were in Utah only a short time before crossing over into Nevada. Shortly after crossing the border we were in a hilly area covered with a green forest. Quite a contrast to Utah and western Arizona. Of course it didn�t take long before the green disappeared and we were back in the desert. The roads were straight for as far as one can see and other than some sage brush there is nothing. For the most part not even other vehicles, actually kind of scary. Anyway, it was interesting and once again we encountered some rain. This time however we did stop and put on the rain gear. Fortunately the rain was not severe nor did it last very long and so we made one more stop to remove and store the rain suits. With about 350 miles behind us we arrived at our campground for the night, Cathedral George State Park. Once again we were in an isolated desert setting but mother nature had blessed us with moderate temperatures. The Ranger at the Park told us we were lucky because last weeks temperatures were in the low 100�s and that the high temperatures would return in another week once the rain showers had passed through the area. Every once in awhile we got lucky. That evening we meet an interesting old gentleman at the campground. He was 86 years old, drove a 1980 Chev. Suburban and was towing a similar vintage travel trailer. He had driven from Las Vegas that day and was headed further north the next morning. He had many great stories about how he and his wife used to back pack in the Sierras many years ago. Enjoyed talking to him.
July 10 Had a good nights sleep again with cool temperatures. Up early and headed out across the Nevada Desert. Another day of straight roads and flat land with mountains always visible in the distance. I don�t think I�ve ever before seen so much of nothing. No people, no buildings, absolutely nothing but an occasional cow or abandon shack. We did see two small herds of horses which we assumed to be wild mustangs. There are no fences in this area so the animals have free range. Many of the cattle are right next to the road where some water had accumulated during the rain the previous night. At one point we came upon what I�m guessing was about a 1200# bull standing broad side right in the middle of the two lane road. Beside his size I also noticed that he had a very large set of very pointy horns. I told Janet over the intercom that I wasn�t aware of the proper etiquette when approaching a large bull on a motorcycle but I would do my best. I slowed way down and approached very slowly. At first the animal just stood there staring at us. Fortunately, when we got within about 20 feet he decided to mosey off onto the shoulder of the road and we were able to proceed. We eventually arrived at an intersection that connected us with the �EXTRATERRESTRIAL HIGHWAY� which is Route 56 across Nevada. This highway passes just north of the Military Installation known as Area 51 where there have allegedly been several encounters with space ships and alien beings. About � way across this stretch of about 150 miles of nothing except sage brush and very distant mountains there is a watering hole known as Rachel�s �LITTLE ALEINN�. We�ve seen this place on TV and so just had to stop. We both had an Alien Burger and coffee for lunch. The interior of the restaurant is decorated with photographs of flying saucers, aliens, and unidentified bright lights in the sky. The strange part was the two guys sitting at the bar discussing the bright lights that they had seen dancing across the desert floor while on patrol the night before, and planning what area they would investigate tonight. They also mentioned that it seemed as though the military patrols had increased along the perimeter and so they were convinced that �something big� was going to happen. There is actually a small village of campers behind the restaurant where a bunch of people stay that are committed to making these night patrols looking for UFO�s. Interesting hobby. After our Alien Burger we continued west toward California. Pretty much the only thing that changed was that the distant mountains kept getting bigger and bigger. One interesting observation in this desolate land is that it�s practically impossible to estimate distance. At one point we crested a small hill and saw a road sign advertising a picnic area and rest stop 2 miles ahead. In fact because it�s so flat we could easily see that picnic area in the distance and would have bet that it was no more that a � mile ahead. With all the flat barren land and no trees or man made structures of any type there is no perspective with which to judge distance. Finally we crossed over into California and the mountains suddenly became incredibly big and had snow on top. We headed north to the Yosemite area and a private camp ground in Lee Vining. A small town just to the west of the National Park. It was a long but interesting day.
July 11 After a good night�s sleep, again with very cool temperatures, the day�s plan was to tour the Yosemite National Park. The first stop was at the local gas station for a fill-up. Damn, $2.39 a gallon. Oh well, the alternative was walking and so we paid the price and took off for the Park. Our day in the park was spectacular. My limited vocabulary is definitely being taxed when attempting to record what we have seen and describe the features of natures offerings. I�ve got to say that I�ve seen lots of man made exhibits and attractions but nothing can compare to what Mother Nature has bestowed upon us in these naturally occurring landscapes. The majesty and magnitude of the gigantic stone faced mountains I think can only be fully appreciated if seen in person. The same is true of the beautiful vistas seen as lush green valley floors when viewed from the overlooks at the top of the mountains. In this area all roads that provide access to the spectacular area are two lane and are carved into the side of the stone mountains. They undulate up, down and around the various mountain sides and through the valleys providing spectacular views. It does however take some getting used to navigating up the side of a mountain with no guard rail or other barrier between you and a 2000 foot shear drop. It�s as close as one can come to flying without an airplane or some illegal drug. Since our base camp was on the east side of the park and we had to return on the same path as we entered in the morning we got to observe the parks features from two directions. In many cases this gave us a totally different perspective of certain features. Especially some of the water features. The small lakes are very much more beautiful when viewed from a higher elevation with the snow capped mountains in the back ground as opposed to approaching them from the lower elevation and viewing them from at or near water level. Overall it was a great experience even though it was a rather long and tiring day. We did some hiking in order to gain a better view of some of the water falls and it was worth the effort however I think we�ll both sleep well this evening. I almost forgot to mention that when we first entered the park there was some road construction and the resultant traffic stops. At one point we pulled up next to a VICTORY motorcycle with Florida plates. I as the rider where he was from and he answered The Netherlands. I said OH and just then the rider behind him said I�m from Longwood, FL. Then traffic started moving. We later meet a group of about 10 bikes at an overlook including the two original folks. Turns out the guy from Longwood is a Fire Fighter and spends his vacation working as a tour leader for an outfit called Motorcycle Tours that is based in both Orlando and San Francisco. We had an interesting chat with both the Leaders and especially the folks from the Netherlands who had flown into LA and were doing a West Coast tour.
July 12 Decided to stay an extra day at the camp at Lee Vining so we could rest some and do some laundry. While we were hanging around camp we had the opportunity to meet the one of the people who was camped next to us. We had wondered what these folks were doing as they were up before sun up every morning and didn�t return until near sunset at which time they would unload large sacks from their truck. Well all our questions were answered during our conversation. The guy whom we talked to was in the business of collecting wild flower seeds. He had a half dozen workers with him who would spend the day collecting flower stems that contained seeds from various varieties of wild flowers. He told us that he had a contract with the State Highway Department to provide them with seeds for specific types of flowers that they required to restore certain areas that had been disrupted during various construction projects. He described the entire process of gathering and processing the seed, which is quite involved and told us that he had been earning his living doing this type of work for about 10 years. This is a vocation which not many individuals participate in, or for that matter one which most people even know exists. It�s pretty amazing the things one can learn just hanging around a camp ground! Later that day we did manage a short trip of less that 5 miles to Lake Mono Visitor Center just north of the campground. Lake Mono is a land locked salt water lake and is a remnant of pre volcanic periods when this area was covered with ocean waters.
July 13 Today was a rough day. Spent 8 hours in the saddle and only made 265 miles. Still headed north up the eastern border of California. The mountains continue to be impressive. Our 1st mountain pass was Monitor at 8314 feet, then Luther pass at 7735 and as a result of a wrong turn we navigated Donner Pass at about 8000 feet. The ride over these passes on two lane roads with shear drops and no guard rails was both exhilarating and scary. On a couple of occasions there were drops on both sides of the road and again no guard rails on either side. Of course there is no shoulder to act as a cushion, in fact in some areas the white painted line that marks the edge of the road was crumbling away. This is scary territory for a flat lander from Florida. Of course the hills are very steep and there are plenty of turns, including 360�s to keep one entertained. On a couple of occasions we stopped to snap a couple of pictures and the views were incredible. Once back on the bike I handed the small camera to Janet and ask her to take a few pictures as we were moving. She declined and said that she did not want to look out over the edge. She mumbled something about watching for Falling Rock and no more was said. Eventually we found our way down off the mountain peaks and arrived in South Lake Tahoe. We had lunch at a picnic area on the southern shore of Lake Tahoe. What a beautiful place. Once back on the road we discovered that Tahoe is a huge tourist area with all the heavy traffic that goes along with that distinction. Between grinding up and down the mountains in 3rd and 4th gear and sitting in traffic jams along Lake Tahoe I think our average speed while traveling during the day was about 25 mph. Oh well, the scenery was great. Late in the afternoon we were about 30 miles from our planned destination for the night but we were both beat. We both spied an old 50�s style motel while passing through Quincy, CA and decided that we would pull in there for the night. It was a neat place that had recently been remodeled and as a bonus we meet another couple who were also riding BMW�s and were headed for the Rally in Redmond. Tom and Marie were great folks from Wisconsin with whom we went to dinner and later sat on the front porch at the motel and talked for awhile. Hope to see them again at the Rally.
July 14 Again with an early start, said good by to our new friends and hit the road. We rode about 1 � hours through more mountains and pine forests then stopped at a country restaurant for breakfast. For $6.00 each we both stuffed ourselves with eggs, sausage, english muffins, fried potatoes and coffee. Oh well, so much for the diet. We also had a great conversation with 6 other patrons in the restaurant. Good food and good conversation, it don�t hardly get better than this. Finally left the restaurant and headed west to Lassen Volcano National Park. An interesting ride through an area just full of dormant volcanoes. This is an area where there are active hot springs and lots of steam venting out of the hill sides. And of course this park has it�s own Lassen Pass. Another of those white knuckle roads with about a � mile shear drop off the side of the road with no guard rails. Once out of the National Park we continued riding west through and over small mountains and canyons. There was one stretch of about 75 miles approaching Redding, CA where there were continuous curves including several 180? turns as we wound our way up yet another mountain. Once over that mountain we descended into the valley and the temperatures, which had been in the high 60�s and low 70�s started to climb reaching a high of 94 in Redding. We stopped at a Walmart so Janet could replace the sun glasses that she lost back at Lake Tahoe. From Redding we continued west, eventually climbing back into the last set of mountains between us and the Pacific Ocean. About 70 miles from the coast the temperature started to drop once again. We finally got our 1st glimpse of the Pacific from US 101. We turned north on 101 and found a camp ground for the ;night. This was another of those days when I planned and easy 275 miles but didn�t consider the lower than average speed that would be experienced through the National Park and traversing Lassen Pass nor the other extreme mountain roads. So, our easy day turned into 8 or 9 hours and only 320 miles. I�ve reconsidered my original plan for the next 4 days prior to the Rally and have modified the route to include a max. of 200 miles on any day. We both need a rest. The temperature at 8:00 PM is a damp 63?, should be good sleeping.
July 15 Today we slept late and didn�t get on the road until almost 10:00. However, the ride up US 101 through northern California and about 100 miles into Oregon was great. It was highlighted by the Red Wood National Park. Riding on a narrow 2 lane road blanketed on both sides by towering red woods makes one feel very insignificant. This morning was cold and very foggy. Temperature was about 50? and was compounded by strong winds coming off the ocean. We had to stop and dig out the heated liners for our jackets. They work great and we finally got warm. The wind, with gusts I think up to about 20 mph, made it very tiring to ride. Twice I stopped to take pictures and had trouble holding the bike from falling over. The coast line of Calif. and Oregon are the same and both are very picturesque with mountains running right up to the ocean and very large rocks sticking up quite far out into the water. Of course because of the mountains there are not a lot of accessible beaches however, where there was access there were wind surfers and a few folks with regular surf boards. I had no interest in walking on the beach, it was extremely cold and windy. Along one stretch of highway that wandered inland away from the coast we came across a meadow next to the road where there was a herd of elk grazing. We were able to get off the road and park in order to observe these large animals. I didn�t make an actual count, but there had to be at least 20 of them in that field. We took some pictures and watched them for awhile before continuing on our way. The wind and cold were tough on both of us so we decided to find a motel. We only went 184 miles and ended up in a motel in a beach town in Bandon, Oregon. It was a very nice place overlooking the old restored town and the local fishing pier.
July 16 Another chilly day on the bike. We left our motel about 7:30 and stopped at the first available gas station where we talked to the attendant. Oh yea, the state law in Oregon required the attendant to pump the gas, or if your on a motorcycle they must hand you the nozzle and then you can fill your own tank. No self service. Kind of a strange law. The gentleman that we talked to said that he had relocated to that area just 8 years ago and loves it. Bandon, which is right on the coast, has temperatures extremes of 30 to 75 and no snow. It does however get the heavy morning fog in summer as well as heave winds into early afternoon. He said real estate is not terribly expensive but homes are in short supply and there is very little new construction in that immediate area. Guess I don�t understand that concept but I do kind of like it. Wish we could transfer that policy to Florida. With a full tank of gas we headed east from Bandon on some 2 lane roads that were obviously designed for motorcycles. One curve after another connected by short straight segments that allow for some gawking at the beautiful country side. For about 75 miles inland from the coast we were in small to medium size mountains that are totally covered with a blanket of evergreen trees. This deep green vegetation is so dense that it totally obscures the earth beneath the tree limbs and gives the mountain side a soft, almost velvet like appearance. I find I much prefer this softer gentler landscape to the extremely stark image offered by the immense but barren mountain peaks in the northern California area. Besides, these Oregon mountains did not subject us to any of those weak in the knees, white knuckle mountain roads with unprotected shear drop offs. The road that we were on followed a beautiful mountain river. There seemed to be a lot of human activity along the stream and ultimately we saw a fisherman with what I believe was a huge salmon. The fish had to be at least 4 feet long. So, I guess it must be near spawning time and the salmon are moving up stream. After about 75 miles we left the coastal mountain range and rode through a high mountain plateau that was devoid of trees. In fact it was almost desert like. What a stark contrast to the ultra green mountain area that we had just been through. The plateau lasted for about 40 miles and then we re-entered a new mountain range. This is the one leading up to Crater Lake National Park. We got our first glimpse of the Lake from the viewing area on the entrance road. All I can say is �spectacular�. The water is an extremely deep blue and of course the lake is totally surrounded by volcanic mountain peaks. We took a few pictures and then drove on to the camp ground where we secured a camp site for two nights. The plan was to travel around the park tomorrow and then leave for Redmond on Wednesday morning. Day time temperatures here are in the low to mid 50�s. We have made good use of our heated jacket liners and I expect tonight to be quite cold.
July 17 Today was a slow day after a very cold night. I checked the temperature on the bike computer and found it was 34? at 8:00 AM. Last night was below freezing. After breakfast we took off on a tour of the rim of Crater Lake. Again we enjoyed the incredible beauty provided by Mother Nature. The deep blue of the water is the most memorable feature. It was a short day with only 48 miles of riding. The rest of the day we spent socializing with Sam and �Teem, a couple that were camped next to us in their travel trailer whom we had meet yesterday. We sat with them a good part of the afternoon in the sunshine next to their trailer. The sun kept us warm and the conversation entertained. Unfortunately our camp site was very shady which is this case is not desirable as the afternoon high was only 54? and tonight will be another cold one. Assuming we survive the night, tomorrow we�ll pack up and head north to Redmond and the Rally site. Hope they let is in early or we�ll have to find a place to stay for one or two nights.
July 18 The night was cold, somewhere in the mid 30�s, and we awoke to dense fog, almost like a light rain. Anyway, we had breakfast, packed up all the gear and made the short ride to Redmond and the Rally site. Fortunately they were allowing early arrivals access to the camping area so we found ourselves a convenient spot and set up the camper. By now I was in need of a new set of tires for the bike. With 18,000 miles on them it was not a surprise. I canvassed the few vendors that were set up and found only one that had two sets of tires like the ones that I desired. So, I immediately made an appointment and got both front and rear tires mounted and balanced for $367. Not too bad considering the circumstances. Spent the rest of the day relaxing and talking to lots of different folks.
July 19, 20, & 21 Spent most of the time at the Rally visiting all the vendors, and meeting and talking to fellow participants. Friday morning we went into the next town, Bend, where we meet about 50 other riders on K1200LT�s. This was a planned meeting of those K1200LT owners who participate in the e-mail group on YAHOO. There were about 30 K1200LT�s all lined up along the curb in front of this little restaurant in down town Bend. It was quite a spectacle and better yet it was fun to meet many of the List members that we have been communicating with for more than two years. Back at the Fair Grounds we got talked into selling 50/50 tickets for a couple of hours. The drawing was for the benefit of a local children�s organization. At first I was reluctant to take this assignments, but in the end we had fun doing it (got to meet even more people) and it was for a good cause. One of the couples camped next to us at the Fair Grounds was headed, with their 20 year old son, to Alaska after the Rally. We talked to them for some time and learned that they were originally from Nanticoke, Pa. and an uncle of theirs had been a High School Principal at a school where one of Janet�s aunts had taught during a similar time. Small world. Overall the Rally was a great success with over 6000 people in attendance and plenty to keep everyone busy. We had fun and we meet lots of great people. There were self guided scenic rides in the area, plenty of vendors displaying the latest and greatest accessories and safety equipment, and a variety of scheduled seminars to attend on a wide range of subjects.
July 22 Well, the party�s finally over. After breakfast we pack the camper, said our good-byes and headed north toward Washington. The early going was great, riding the twistys through beautiful red wood and Pine forests in the mountains. However, we soon found ourselves running out of the forest and back into the high desert with the constant view of volcanic mountain peaks in the distance. Strictly by accident we stumbled into a National Park Services area known as the JOHN DAY FOSSIL BEDS. We stopped at the Visitor Center and viewed a short film describing the area. This area claims to contain some of the richest fossil beds in the world. They contain an almost continuous 40 million year fossil record of plant and animal life. We spent about an additional hour touring through the small museum at the Visitor Center. Eventually we continued north following a twisty road along a valley bounded on both sides by huge mountains that were part of the volcanic range that had been described back at the Visitor Center. This area is a motorcyclists delight, unbelievable roads. After about 100 miles of this spectacular road and scenery we climbed back onto another high desert plateau like the one in the Redmond area. At first it was interesting however, after a couple of hours it got very monotonous. The road was again interesting going up, down and around the hills and valleys, but the scenery was boring. Eventually we crossed into the south east corner of Washington and stopped at a motel in Walla Walla. It was a hot afternoon, in the mid 90�s, and camping just didn�t seem like a good idea. Besides, we were both tired since there was a loud band playing each night at the Rally which made sleeping difficult. Not complaining understand, just need a good night�s sleep. We watched the Weather Channel on the motel TV and as a result decided to change our plan to visit Salt Lake City as the temperatures being forecast for the that area were not conducive to comfortable motorcycling. Besides, Janet was starting to let me know that she wanted to get home. Something about missing the kids, the granddaughter, the goats and the dog. I also think it might have had something to do with having sat on the back seat of the bike for a little more than 6000 miles up to that point. I do however have to say that I am blessed with a wonderful Wife that puts up with my ideas of a vacation, after all they�re not exactly �mainstream�. Anyway, because of the forecast for very hot conditions in the Salt Lake area we decided that when we left Yellowstone we would travel directly down into Colorado and so I spent a major portion of the evening studying the maps and rerouting our course.
July 23 Out of the hotel around 8:00 AM and headed for Idaho and Montana. Again we enjoyed many miles of great two lane roads but absolutely dismal road side scenery. Nothing but grass lands and rolling hills as far as the eye can see. By now it seems to me that there must be over 1,000,000,000 acres of wheat, alfalfa and an occasional cord field between Oregon, Washington and Idaho. It struck me that if I was a farmer in this area and had to climb up on my tractor and start plowing and harrowing all this land that I would probably be in serious treatment for depression. Just having to look out of the windshield and not being able to see the end of the field that I�m preparing for planting would be enough to send me to the funny farm. It would be kind of like giving me a pair of kitchen shears and telling me to cut and trim all the grass on our little 5 acre home site. This is not a pretty picture. On the other hand I have to be thankful that there are those that are committed to that lifestyle. Without their efforts life for the rest of us might not be so easy. Every time I buy a loaf of bread at the grocery store I�ll be reminded of all those �amber waves of grain� that I saw out west! Now back to the trip report. The eastern half of Idaho gradually phased out of farm land and back to pine forest and mountains. We were on another of those great biking roads, State RT 12, that follows Clearview river for about 100 miles through the mountains. The water is crystal clear and appeared to be waist deep in many areas. This part of the ride would have provided the perfect end for the day if it weren�t for the construction. There was about a 20 mile stretch that was being stripped and re-paved which caused many long delays as a result of single lane traffic. That 20 miles took us about 1 � hours. However, we were eventually rewarded for our patience. Shortly after we broke free of the construction we came upon a small grassy meadow to the left side of the highway in which there stood a mother moose with her baby. These are truly impressive animals where ever they are observed, but to see a mother and baby in a wild natural setting is a rare opportunity. Shortly thereafter we arrived at the campground that we had selected and found a campsite right next to a babbling brook. With temperatures expected in the high 30�s for the night and natures sound effects from the flowing stream we were looking forward to and were rewarded with a restful evening. Later that afternoon three additional BMW motorcycles arrived at the campground. Two couples and a solo rider. We introduced ourselves and compared notes as they had also been at the Rally. This chance encounter made for an entertaining evening. One of the several advantages of camping.
July 24 In the morning we packed up and got back on Rt 12 (Lewis & Clark Trail) and encountered what seemed like an endless supply of left and right 50 mph sweepers all nestled in a mountain valley adjacent to a crystal clear mountain stream. To make it even better, around every curve was a new and ever changing view of the distant snow capped mountains. Had we had more time I think I would have like to have dumped the trailer and turned around and re-ran the whole route. But alas, that wasn�t part of the plan. In the interest of time, we sadly said good by to this wonderful 2 lane by-way and jumped on interstate, I90. We hammered out about 200 miles in around 3 hours, and that included a lunch break in a gas station SUBWAY sandwich shop. Finally we arrived in Brezeman, Montana where we exited the interstate and headed south toward the west entrance to Yellowstone National Park. Interestingly enough the speed limit on this 2 lane state highway, Rt 278 was 70 mph. Traffic was light and so we continued to make good time. We arrived at the Yellowstone KOA campground at about 3:30 in the afternoon and secured a camp site. Even though this had been a fairly ambitious day at a little over 350 miles we both felt good and had enjoyed the ride. The temperatures had been moderate, in the mid 70�s, and the scenery was enjoyable. We had the green rolling mountains of Idaho in the morning followed by spectacular views of the Rocky Mountains from both the interstate and the two lane state highway approaching Yellowstone. It�s funny how keeping the mind entertained with pleasing sights and sounds, as we were approaching the larger mountains I started playing Johnny Denver CD�s on the bikes stereo, has a major influence on one�s alertness and physical fatigue. Anyway, after setting up camp and getting a much needed shower and clean cloths we headed for the restaurant within the campground complex. Janet decided to try the Buffalo Steak and I had a � order of BBQ Ribs. Janet said the Steak was tasty but tough. Good thing I went for the Ribs as I�m not sure my store bought teeth could have handled the steak. In any event, probably because we�ve booth been eating rather light, we left the restaurant stuffed. Guess we�ll have to sleep it off. Tomorrow the plan is to tour at least a portion of Yellowstone.
July 25 A day in the Park. We left camp around 9:00 and headed for Yellowstone, a short 6 mile ride to the west entrance. We opted to tour the southern portion of the park which included the Old Faithful geyser. In fact, our first stop was the visitor�s viewing area at the site of Old Faithful. Fortunately, with the motorcycle, parking was not an issue and we arrived just after the geyser had started it erupt so we got a preview of it�s performance. We then toured the gift shop which is ever so convenient to the parking lot, and took a short walk on the board walk that traverses through the concentration of geo-thermal pools that surround Old Faithful. Once again Mother Nature has provided us with some pretty amazing features that are both aesthetically pleasing as well as technically challenging. Ultimately we headed back to the viewing area for Old Faithful, the main attraction. Our wait was only about 30 minutes after which we got to see the whole show. Pretty awesome. It was then back to the bike to tour the remainder of the lower loop of the park. The remnants of the 1988 fires are ever present. It seemed to me that upward of 25% of the total park area must have been involved in the fire. Trunks of dead trees cover the hillsides, lying criss crossed like 1000�s of tooth picks dumped out on the floor. Evidence of recovery is however present everywhere. 1000�s and 1000�s of small evergreen trees blanket the mountain sides. These trees are only 3 to 5 feet tall, but will eventually restore the area to it�s former beauty. The wild game in the park is also impressive. We saw geese, mule deer, bison, and elk on multiple occasions. Of course, when ever any of this wildlife comes close to the road traffic comes to a complete stop and all the cameras come out. There were also three major areas of road construction on the lower loop. These re-paving projects also caused major delays of up to 20 minutes each. Therefore, with the photo stops, short walking tours and traffic delays our 146 mile day took about 8 hours. We were both tired and will probably hit the sack early tonight so we can get an early start tomorrow. We will be going back through a portion of the park so that we can enter the Grand Teton Park area from the north.
July 26 We pulled out of the campground under clear skies and with temperatures in the low 50�s. Last night was again quite cool with temperatures in the low 40�s, great sleeping weather. We re-entered Yellowstone and headed for the south entrance, which is also the north entrance to the Teton�s. This is not a route to take if you want to make good time. Four and a half hours and about 100 miles later we finally exited Yellowstone and entered Grand Teton Park. However, as was true on several occasions we were rewarded for our patience. About half way through Yellowstone traffic was stopped for no apparent reason. Well, finally the reason became all to obvious. From around the corner of the two cars in front of us appeared the very large head of a bison. The big guy had been standing right in the middle of our lane blocking traffic. Eventually he decided to walk along the centerline of the road in our direction. Of course all the folks sitting in the relative protection of their cars and vans are enjoying this experience. On the other hand we�re both feeling quite vulnerable sitting there all exposed on our little �ol motorcycle. Well the buffalo walked on past us close enough that we could have touched him and provided us with some excitement and a great photo opportunity. As we entered the Grand Teton National Park we were treated to the amazing views of these chisel faced giants. They are so large that, even though they are many miles from the road, you have the feeling that if you stretch just a little that you could reach out and touch them. As we proceeded south the skies became increasingly hazy. Finally the haze was so heavy that it all but obscured the views of the mountains. We later learned that the haze that cut our viewing of the mountains was coming from some wild fires in the area of Cody, Wyoming. Even with that complication it was worth the effort to have the opportunity to see these amazing mountains. After leaving the area of the Tetons we entered another of those north west ranch/prairie lands. These high prairies are very monotonous and except for the cooler temperatures and high cross winds are no different than the deserts of the south west. We did frequently see individual as well as small herds of antelope grazing along the road side. I believe they may out number the people in this part of the country. There are about 100 miles or more between towns and some of these have populations of 100 or less and no gas stations. At one place someone had taken spray paint and put an �X� through the number 56 on the sign and wrote 58 next to is so I guess someone must have had twins recently. Any way, glad the BMW gets good gas mileage. One advantage of the apparent lack of population in these areas is the equally apparent lack of speed limit enforcement. I set the cruse on 75 and only stopped once in 200 miles for some gas and leg stretching. Even at that speed I was occasionally passed by other cars and motorcycles on a two lane road. I would estimate that some of these vehicles were doing between 90 and 95 mph. Those speeds are just too fast for us riding two up and pulling a fairly heavy trailer . This long high speed run with heavy cross winds wore both of out and so we decided to once again do the motel thing. As we settled into our room for the night we could see and hear high winds and heavy rain outside the room. So as it turns out the motel we a good decision for a variety of reasons.
July 27 The rains subsided during the night and so we were able to once again get under way with clear skies and cool temperatures. We traveled through more of the high desert country in the direction of Colorado. As we approached Steamboat Springs we got our first glimpse of the Colorado Rockys. This was a pleasant contrast to the prairie lands that we had just spent the last couple of days crossing. Leaving Steamboat we headed up the mountain toward Rabbit Ears Pass which crested at 9400 feet. Needless to say with the load that we were carrying we did lots of 4th gear and some 3rd gear running at fairly high rpm�s in order to maintain a reasonable highway speed. Once again the Beamer performed flawlessly. We continued on to Grand Lake, which is located just to the south of the Rocky Mountain National Park, and spent the night in a National Forest campground. This was a delightful park with campsites about 40 yards off the lake shore and views of the mountains in all directions. We spent the afternoon enjoying the park and the views and preparing for what promised to be another cool, if not cold night.
July 28 We weren�t disappointed by the night�s temperatures. It definitely dropped into the 30�s during the night. However we both slept well and recognized that we were probably experiencing the end of cool temperatures for the remainder of the trip and so there was no complaining. After breakfast we got into a conversation with one of our neighbor campers about our trip, the local area and whole variety of other topics and so we didn�t get the early start that we had planned. We did however enjoy meeting those folks and the conversation. We had discussed touring through the Rocky Mountain National Park but abandon that in favor of a potential visit with an old friend who lives in Colorado Springs. This is a Son of our former neighbor in Pennsylvania whom we had known from throughout his childhood until he left home as an adult. We hadn�t seen him for about 20 +/- years and just couldn�t travel that far without attempting a visit. So, we headed out of the mountains in the direction of Denver. When we arrived on the outskirts of town we stopped and made a phone call to his home and fortunately he and his family were there. We drove south to Colorado Springs and his home. Let me tell you that the traffic that we all complain about around Orlando here in Florida is like a walk in the park compared to I25 between Denver and Colorado Springs. We endured a full 40 miles of stop and go traffic (more stop than go). However, once again we were rewarded for our patients by being able to visit with Lee, his wife and two children for about an hour and a half. It was really good to have this opportunity which turned out to be one of the several highlights of the trip. We ended our visit and headed south out of Colorado Springs to route 50, where we turned east. Once again we found ourselves in the Colorado prairie. Just like all the others, there�s nothing in any direction as far as the eye can see. The only difference seems to be that the little towns are closer together and it�s hot. The temperature had climbed into the mid 90�s and so once again a motel seemed to be in order. We made it across the border into Kansas before stopping for the night.
July 29 Another long, hot, boring day getting us about two thirds the way across Kansas. Nothing but prairie where huge farms are growing corn, various grains, sunflowers (yes, acres and acres of sunflowers-not a crop that us easterners are used to seeing). The agricultural areas are spotted with frequent gas and oil wells and huge grain elevators and equally huge cattle feeder lots. Some of the feeder lots are as big as 30 to 40 acres with 1000�s of cattle doing nothing but standing around eating and eliminating the resulting waste material. The aroma, beginning about a half mile before the facility, is terribly noxious. The best description I can come up with would be eating a big bowl of beans, going into the bathroom and sitting on the pot and while the beans are doing their job, pour a bottle of household ammonia all over the floor! We stopped in Dodge City at the Boot Hill attraction, looked around a little and decided it was just another tourist rip off and left. One advantage of Kansas is that the roads are very straight and once again speed limits do not seem to be enforced, perhaps with the exception of all the small towns where everyone slows down to the 25 to 30 mph limits. So, I set the cruise on 80, really want to get Kansas behind us, and sat back and relaxed. The only problem we had was the heat. The bike computer twice maxed out at 103*. We both drank lots of water but were very tired and of course again headed for a motel.
July 30 Today started off at about 8:00 with the outside temperature already at 84?and the anticipation of another day riding across a baron Kansas landscape. The morning was in fact exactly what we expected with temperatures climbing to 97?by 10:00. About 100 miles from the Missouri border we rounded a curve, crested a small hill and suddenly everything in front of us was green and hilly. We finally left behind the smelly stock yards, the huge co-op grain elevators and a country side that is only green where it�s being irrigated. It really was like someone threw a switch. Hills, curves in the road, and green country side with real trees. Even was a couple of Pecan Groves. Since we were in the vicinity we decided to take a short detour through Coffeyville, KS. The site of the 2001 Retread International Rally that a bunch of us are scheduled to go to in September. We were not impressed. The main highway, 169, by-passes the old part of town and is typical of most places with gas stations, various retail stores, and a Rodeo Arena. We turned around and went back through the �Old� Downtown only to find a typical old western town shopping area with quaint old buildings with the typical false store fronts. Unfortunately, most of the stores were empty having been put out of business by the new shopping areas on the main highway. Oh well, this, like most Rally�s is for me more about the people than the location and so I�m sure we�ll all enjoy it. This detour behind us, we continued on our way and crossed over into Missouri. We continued to enjoy the curvy, hilly highways and green country side. We turned south and went on toward Arkansas. Within a few miles we were into the Ozark mountains. What a visual delight after the plainness of Kansas. We passed through several small resort towns including Eureka where there seemed to be many empty motels and a lot a antique shops just waiting to be explored. Unfortunately we were in a hurry and so we did another 40 miles or so before stopping for the night.
July 31 Today we continued our journey through the Ozarks. A delightful area of small mountains with great two lane roads that twist and turn while climbing up and down over the lush green mountains. With temperatures in the low 80�s we had a blast even with the camper following behind. We had close to 100 miles of this entertainment before we left the hills behind and spent the remainder of the day running across the farm land of Arkansas with temperatures in the mid 90�s. Also noticed that we�ve re-entered the HUMIDITY ZONE. We finally said good by to Arkansas and cut across the corner of Tennessee at Memphis. Had about 20 miles of big city traffic before crossing over into Mississippi. We picked up State route 78, which is a multilane limited access highway on which we ran about another 80 miles. At about 3:30 with 350 miles under our belt we had both had about as much fun as we could stand for one day and found a motel in New Albany.
August 1 Left this morning under cooler temperatures, the high for the day was to be in the low 90�s and the humidity seemed to be down to a tolerable level. We continued on through Birmingham headed for the Georgia border. Overall this was an enjoyable ride through the hills and mountains of Alabama and into Georgia. Good weather and pleasant scenery. Again a motel was in order for the night. The weather was OK for riding but not ideal for camping and with some luck this will be our last night on the road.
August 2 Left the motel at 8:00 again with clear skies and temperatures in the low 80�s. We had about 350 miles of four lane highway and interstate between us and our own bed for the night. We continued south and made several stops for drinks and leg stretching but overall the ride to within about 45 miles of home was uneventful. One exit before our planned departure from I75 it began to rain. We could see heavy rain down the road and so decided to exit and top off the fuel tank and slip into the rain gear. Good thing we did. I believe that Mother Nature just wanted to remind us that we were on a motorcycle trip and decided to rain on our parade. Actually as it turned out the rain wasn�t all that bad and it helped to keep the temperature down. Truth be known, the temperature on our ride through Florida was the coolest that we experienced since we left Denver, CO. We arrived home at about 2:30 in the afternoon to light rain and a temperature of 74*.